How to Make a Fire Safety Plan for Your Home

Have you ever stopped to think about watching your house go up in flames, and your whole life disintegrate into ash and soot? If you answered no, there's a reason for that: It's too horrifying for words. For many of us, our home is an extension of ourselves. It's a place where memories are made, a refuge from the craziness of the outside world and a sanctuary for the things and people we love. How could we ever imagine watching it go up in flames?
Statistically, it's unlikely that you'll ever be faced with having to evacuate a fire in your home. But the problem is you really never know if you will become one of the statistics. You could continue your habit of doing all of the things that you should do to ensure you run a safe household, but despite all of your fire safety procedures, lightning could strike your roof, igniting a fire. Or a faulty wire could spark and ignite some insulation in your attic.
Unfortunately, whether or not a fire could start in your house is never completely within your control. But the plan you have in place to respond to an emergency like this is something that you can. Read on for important tips on developing a fire safety plan for your family and home.

Fire Safety Tips for the Home

We all know how important it is to be prepared if a fire were to ever occur in the home. But we also know that prevention is always preferable, so it's time to take stock of your family's awareness and practices of fire safety in the house. Some of the common sense stuff that is easy to get lazy about includes:

• Keep matches and lighters in locked cabinets, away from small children.
• Only allow candles to be lit when an adult is in the room, and make sure your candleholders are made of materials that aren't flammable, like glass or metal.
• Have chimneys, fireplaces and wood stoves inspected once a year and cleaned as necessary.
• Keep space heaters away from curtains and other flammable items, and make sure they're turned off (and unplugged when possible) when you leave the house or go to bed.
• If you have to keep a gas can at your house, try to store it in an outdoor shed, away from the main building of your home.
• If you have windows or doors with security bars, make sure they have a quick release option and that everyone in the family knows how to open them.
• Keep dish towels away from an open flame and never leave the stove or oven unattended.
• Have working smoke alarms installed on every level of your home, test them every month and change the batteries at least once a year. If you're hooked up to a security system, test that it pages the fire department when the alarm goes off. You can work with your security company to make this happen.
• Ensure that all of your light bulbs are the correct wattage for your lamps and fixtures. If they're too high, they can easily catch fire.
• Keep a fire extinguisher on hand for small fires.

Fire Extinguisher Safety Tips

When purchasing a fire extinguisher for your home, there are a couple important things you need to know. Fire extinguishers are rated for different types of fires. Class A is for regular materials like wood, cardboard and cloth, Class B works on flammable liquids, such as gas, oil and grease, and Class C is for electrical equipment, like wires and fuse boxes.
If you have a Class B or a C extinguisher, you can use them on type-A fires. But it's bad news to use water or a Class A extinguisher on grease or electrical fires. So, your best bet is to look for an extinguisher that is rated A-B-C. That way, you'll be covered for any type of emergency.
Home fire extinguishers are also rated for the size of fire they can deal with; larger numbers can handle bigger fires. This is important information because most portable fire extinguishers completely discharge in around 8 seconds, so you're not going to want to tackle a raging inferno with a small, lightweight extinguisher.
Your fire extinguisher should be installed in plain view and you should always perform the maintenance suggested by the manufacturer. In the unfortunate case that you'll have to use your fire extinguisher, you should start by standing at least 6 to 8 feet away and remember the PASS procedure:

• Pull the pin out.
• Aim low. You'll want to point the nozzle at the base of the fire.
• Squeeze the lever below the handle.
• Sweep from side to side while carefully moving toward the fire.

Do this until the flames are out and then watch the fire area for a while. If the fire re-ignites then repeat the process. Most importantly, if you can't get the fire out then you need to evacuate the premises immediately and call the fire department.

Fire Safety Escape Plan

The first step in creating a fire safety escape plan for your home is to draw a floor plan for each level of your home, marking all possible emergency exits from each room via doors and windows. The door is always the ideal exit, but if it's blocked by fire then there needs to be an alternative, like a window. This means that windows need to be able to open easily from the inside, so as we mentioned previously, any security bars need a quick release latch that everyone in the home knows how to operate. If your exterior doors are deadbolt locked, then make sure there is a key in easy reaching distance to the door, so you don't have to waste time trying to get to your keys.
Be sure to include stairways, and details like a garage roof or porch that could aid in a quick escape. If you have a second story, it's not a bad idea to have portable fire escape ladders standing by that can be attached to a window and used to evacuate in an emergency. If you have young children, people with disabilities or elderly relatives living with you, they're probably going to need some assistance getting out, so you'll need to decide who is responsible for helping them. And don't forget to include your pets in the plan, as well. Have visible signage on your home of how many pets you have, so the fire department is aware or let them know when you call them that there are pets in the house.
In the case of a fire emergency, it's likely you'll have mere minutes to get everyone out safely, so taking a few minutes to plan these details in advance could literally be a matter of life or death. You'll also want to pick a meeting place outside of your house, so you can account for everyone and make sure they're safe.
Once you have all the details decided, you'll need to practice the plan to make sure you can execute it quickly. It's recommended to hold fire drills at least twice a year to make sure that everyone knows what to do without hesitation. This is a great time to discuss details of the real thing. For example, remind everyone not to open doors if the knobs are hot and crawl low and keep your mouth covered if there's smoke in the air. Also, everyone should be warned to not waste time trying to grab any property on the way out. Stuff can be replaced, but your family cannot.

For more information, visit http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-make-a-fire-safety-plan-for-your-home4.htm

5 Tips for Cleaning for Fall

When the days start getting shorter and your thoughts turn to sitting around the fireplace instead of standing around the outdoor grill, it's time to invest a weekend on fall cleaning.
Spring isn't the only time of year it pays to clean, organize and take stock of your home environment and accumulated stuff. Autumn is a perfect opportunity to stash that summer sports gear and other assorted toys, and start figuring out where you tossed the umbrellas, driving gloves and snow shovels last spring.
You spend major time indoors when the weather gets cold, so the more you do now to clean and arrange your space, the more pleasant it will be to hunker down for the duration when the weatherman starts talking about frost on the pumpkin.
Some elbow grease now will make Christmas entertaining easier and keep your home safer and more secure, too. A dirty dishwasher or grimy shower may not seem like a big deal when you're watching fireflies on the patio, but come January, you'll be surrounded by overcast skies and wishing you'd dragged out the ammonia on a day when it wouldn't be a problem to leave the windows open all afternoon.
These five important autumn chores will help get you prepared for winter and save you from having to play catch up during those short winter weekends when there never seems to be enough time or energy to get things done before it gets dark outside.

5: Clean the Roof Gutters

Roof gutters are traces and chutes that route water off your roof. When you buy a home, the prospect of having to periodically climb up a ladder to maintain the gutters of your castle may not be at the forefront of your mind, but even though gutter maintenance may not be on your list of homeowner-friendly chores, it's a necessary part of home ownership. In fact, gutter cleaning is really important for the health of your home. Clogged gutters can cause water to pool on your roof, resulting in leaks and making a more attractive environment for some types of termites. Poor gutter maintenance can also lead to problems with siding, windows, doors and foundations from the prolonged effects of water draining on or near your walls.
Some new types of gutters have capped leaf-catching systems to keep leaves out, but even these gutter innovations aren't foolproof and need to be checked and periodically maintained. The best approach is to plan a day when you can get up close and personal with your gutters, read up on ladder safety, and dig out your heavy-duty work gloves.
Here's what you'll need:

• Narrow trowel
• Plastic garbage bag
• Stiff brush
• Safety goggles
• Hose with pressure attachment
• Heavy-duty work gloves

The easiest way to manually clean your gutters is the day after a light rain. The slightly damp leaves and dirt will come up more easily. If you're lucky enough to have a low sloping roof, you may be able to use a leaf blower to do the lion's share of the work, but if that's your plan, wait for everything in the gutters to dry out completely first.
The heaviest concentration of leaves and gunk will accumulate at the drain outlets, so start cleaning there. Use a narrow trowel to scoop up muck and dispose of it in the garbage bag; a bulb trowel is a perfect choice. You can also do it the old-fashioned way with your gloved hands, but be careful of exposed screws and sharp metal gutter edges. You can tie the bag to your belt or attach it to the ladder. If you can't get all the silt accumulation out, use the brush to work it free. Now you're ready to reposition the ladder and work on the next section of gutter.
Once you have a length of gutter completed, use the hose to remove loose silt and anything else you missed. This will also give you a chance to check how quickly your downspout drains and whether or not the slope of your gutters needs adjustment. If there's an obstruction in your downspout, you can use a plumber's snake to work it out from the bottom up.
Now you can move on to the next length of gutter.
This process will be much easier if you have a helper who can spot you on the ladder and help feed you the hose when you need it.
Gutter cleaning can be dirty work, so make sure that you, and anyone working with you on the ground, is wearing eye protection and old clothing.
While you're thinking about good gutter maintenance, take a look at how water is draining from your roofline. If you see large drips along the joints where sections of segmented gutter are attached to one another, or there are rivulets running down the walls, your gutters may need repair. If water pools under the downspout, consider investing in a sloped splash box that will reroute water away from your home's foundation.

4: Winterizing Your Kitchen

OK, so it isn't glamorous, but a good kitchen overhaul every once in a while helps keep germs and grease buildup under control. It also makes everything smell fresher and look brighter. Apart from regular maintenance, this is the time to wash the curtains, replace the shelf liners, remove and clean the ceiling fixtures and review all the bottles and cans that have taken up residence under the sink. This seems like a big job now, but once you've started to work, it will go fast.
This is also the time to give your major appliances some attention:

• Refrigerator -- Yes, the refrigerator gets dirty enough for a serious cleaning, even though you spot-clean drips and spills right after they happen. Take the time to remove all the contents as well as the shelves, racks, bins and trays. Wash everything with an antibacterial cleaner. Don't forget the door gasket. Door gaskets help create a good seal that keeps the warm air out and the cool air in, so clean it now and make sure that it stays clean.Don't stop with the interior, either. Haul out the vacuum cleaner and clean the condenser coils on the back or bottom of your refrigerator, too. You'll probably have to pop out the decorative grill below the refrigerator door. Clean condenser coils will save you energy dollars by helping your refrigerator run more efficiently.Before you put everything back, be sure to check the condiments and other stuff that tends to accumulate at the back for freshness dates. Keep everything smelling sweet by putting a stocking filled with activated charcoal or an open box of baking soda on one of the shelves.
• Stove -- No one likes cleaning the stove, but short of buying a new one, it's inevitable. If your model is self-cleaning, then you probably know the drill and can pass on some of the scrubbing.If you detest oven cleaners, you can place a cup of ammonia in a ceramic dish in the oven overnight to loosen some of the baked on stuff, or heat the oven to warm and the ammonia will work a little faster. Be sure to wear gloves and open all nearby windows.As for the outside, your oven's owner's manual will have some cleaning recommendations. By all means, use their guidelines for wiping down the stovetop and range hood, and don't forget to clean the range hood's charcoal insert if your model has one. Now, pull the stove out and tackle the dust bunnies and any grime on the sides.
• Dishwasher -- Who knew that an appliance whose sole purpose is to get things clean could get so dirty? For this job, use some baking soda on a damp sponge and wipe down the interior liner. You can clean and deodorize at the same time. For stubborn stains, try using a plastic scrubber.

3: Clean the Car's Interior

You may take regular trips through the car wash or spend a warm afternoon in the driveway cleaning your vehicle's exterior, but what about the inside of the car?
Summer fun can make lifelong memories, but it can also make a terrible mess. Before you spend winter locked in a car filled with beach sand, candy wrappers, suntan lotion and an extra pair of flip-flops, take an hour to clean and vacuum your car's interior. It's a great time to stock your ride with some things you might need in the next few months, like an ice scraper, umbrella, blanket and warm gloves.
There are lots of specialty products designed for cleaning the interior of your automobile, including upholstery and dashboard cleaners. If you want an inexpensive solution, you can use a little laundry soap on a cloth to do most car interior cleaning jobs. Be sure to use a vacuum with good suction, and don't be afraid to try some of the special attachments. For detail work, use a clean, 1-inch paintbrush or even an artist's brush to get rid of crumbs and dust that gets into those tight places.
Don't forget to tackle the trunk, too. Carrying extra weight in your vehicle wastes gasoline, so this is the time to pull out that accumulated clutter and replace it with a lightweight emergency road kit.
Keeping your glove compartment organized is a good policy any time of year. Having ready access to your current car registration and proof of insurance will save you from fumbling through old receipts and plastic fast-food forks if you get pulled over, and this is a great time to make sure that all your paperwork is current. After all, getting organized is one of the nice things about cleaning day.

2: Clean and Organize the Garage

It's pretty common to cringe when you consider cleaning the garage. For lots of folks, the condition of the garage is a guilty secret. If space in its dark expanse is getting so tight that the car won't even fit inside anymore, it's time to get that clutter under control.
This can be a big job if you haven't done it in a while, so start with some preliminary recon. Take an inventory of what your garage contains and how you'd like to organize the space. Make a list of things you're planning to pitch. Move from there to stuff you want to give away, like old toys or that exercise equipment that you never use. Your third list should include items that you plan on keeping, but start to see them in relation to the space. Begin at the car entry door and work back. Keep the most useful items, like tools, in front. Anything you won't use for six months or more can be positioned toward the back. Make some notes on the list to remind you of where put what.
If you know that you still have lots more stuff than your garage can comfortably accommodate, try considering a few creative storage alternatives, like wall shelves or overhead bins. Storage doesn't have to be expensive, and getting things up off the ground will liberate a surprising amount of space. Camping gear, sports equipment, pool toys and some larger tools can be affixed to the wall or placed on a high shelf to make getting around easier and less hazardous.
Once you have a plan, pull everything out of the garage into your three piles, sweep or go over the floor with a wet-dry vacuum, and install any shelving or bins. Now, you're ready to start putting away the things you plan on keeping.
This chore alone could easily take a weekend, but after that, maintaining a clear and useful garage space will be easy.

1: Beat Pollen and Bugs

In fall and winter, we use our homes more and close them up tight to shut out the cold. While we're protecting ourselves inside, we're trapping dust, dander and mold that can make us sick. Before you batten down the hatches for winter weather, make sure that you get your home as clean as you can:

• Bedding -- Wash all bedding in preparation for cooler temperatures and use very hot water, 130 degrees Fahrenheit (54.4 Celsius) or higher to kill dust mites and bacteria. Over the winter season, be sure to wash bedding weekly.
• Carpets -- Shampoo all of your carpets and change your vacuum cleaner bag. When you vacuum, go over each area multiple times to get up as much dust as possible.
• Drapes and Blinds -- Launder drapes and vacuum window blinds. If it's been a year or more since you tackled cleaning non-wood blinds, remove them and wash them out of doors with a mild soap. Use the hose to rinse off the soap and let them dry completely. Clean wood blinds with a mild wood cleaning solution.
• Heater/Air Conditioner -- Change or clean your HVAC filter, and repeat the process every month through the winter.
• Pets -- We love them, but they can be a handful, particularly if someone in the family has allergies. Whenever possible, bathe cats and dogs regularly to keep dander to a minimum. A weekly bath may seem unrealistic, but even a monthly wet or dry bath is better than nothing. If you teach them young, you may be able to train pets to tolerate the vacuum cleaner for a weekly vacuuming.
• Moist Surfaces -- Clean surfaces that tend to stay moist a while, like shower enclosures, sinks and floor drains, with mold-busting cleansers or a homemade preparation made with a weak solution of bleach and dishwashing liquid.

Your warm, cozy house may look inviting to more than just your family and friends this winter. If you have or develop problems with fleas, bedbugs, mice, cockroaches or other vermin or pests, call a professional or deal with them sooner rather than later. Your family and pets will thank you.


http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/5-tips-for-cleaning-for-fall6.htm

Universal Design in the Kitchen

Where you eat should be accessible, comfortable and usable for everyone in the family. As the hub of most homes, the kitchen draws people together. Incorporating some simple design considerations into your remodel can make the kitchen a functional space today and accessible into the future.

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Cabinets & Countertops

• Build countertops at varying heights for different tasks. Lower levels allow the ability to sit while preparing and cooking meals. The best height is 28" - 32." The usable counter space for a seated person is about 16".
• Create pullout work surfaces such as counters, breadboards and cutting boards for access from a chair. Drawers with fully extendable glides are easier to get into.
• Build or install the wall cabinets closer to the countertop.
• Make bigger, deeper toe kicks and knee spaces under counters.
• Install lazy Susan's and pullout shelves.
• Install D-shaped loop handles on cabinet doors and drawers.
• Reduce glare by using low gloss finishes.
• Use contrasting colors to enhance visibility for those with reduced vision.

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Plumbing

• Install a sink with a shallow (5" - 6" deep) basin for easy reach. By using a tub-bend pipe, the drain can be moved closer to the rear of the undercounter area to provide knee room.
• Install the sink closer to the front of the counter. A removable "faux" counter face under the sink allows the area to be quickly converted to accommodate the user.
• Use a lever- or loop-handled kitchen faucet. Choose faucets with pull out or push-button sprayer controls.
• Prevent scalding by installing faucets with temperature controls. Insulate hot water pipes under the sink.

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Appliances

• Shop for a side-by-side refrigerator and cooktop with front-mounted controls.
• Place microwave drawer or wall oven 31" from the floor for easier access.
• Install dishwasher drawer 6" to 8" above floor level and make it accessible from the right or left sides.
• Place outlets no lower than 15" off the floor.
• Switches and thermostats should be 48" above the floor.

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Also keep in mind that all rooms need:

• Five feet square of open area to allow a wheelchair user to make a 360 degree turnaround.
• Low-pile carpeting or non-slip flooring.
• Ideally, doors openings should be 36" wide.
• Swing away hinges on doors to allow full use of the entire door frame width.

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Plan a Mudroom

Are the shoes, keys, and coats lying all around your home driving you crazy? Need some extra storage? Why not try building a mudroom or converting an existing room into one? Equip it with lots of easy-to-reach shelves and pegs to encourage your family to put away coats, shoes and items they use every day. The benefits don't stop there.

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Benefits of a Mudroom

 

A mudroom traditionally serves as a buffer zone to keep outside elements from getting inside your home. Mudrooms can be a separate room or an area near the entry door that acts as a transition zone. The benefits of having a mudroom include:

• Cleaning - Instead of mopping and cleaning the whole house every time the kids and dogs come running in from the rain, all you've got to worry about is a small space. The rest of the house stays spotless (well, almost). If you're really ambitious and have the space, add a floor drain or sink to your mudroom. If you have allergies, a mudroom may help you breathe easier because it cuts down on the amount of dust, pollen, and mold tracked into your house.
• Storage - A mudroom can double as an extra closet. Who couldn't use extra storage space?
• Heat Transfer - Mudrooms increase heating and cooling efficiency by adding a transition zone. The ideal mudroom has two doors: an outside entrance and an inner door.

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Your Mudroom Location

 

Locate a mudroom where it will be most useful:

• Kitchens are usually near driveways and backyards. In most homes, the kitchen becomes the mudroom by default since that's where the entry door is usually located. Convert the area near the entry door into a truly mud-proof zone.
• Garages are transition areas from the outdoors. If you're adding a garage, add a mudroom too. Or convert a corner of an existing garage.
• Utility rooms can be expanded. They make good mudroom conversions if they have an outside entrance.

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Mudroom Elements

 

In many homes mudrooms are an easy addition or conversion. Standard dimensions are usually between 6' x 6' and 7' x 9'. Make it larger if you wish to add a washer and dryer.

This is one room where you want the floor to get dirty. Select flooring that's moisture-proof, easily cleaned, and practically indestructible.

• Tile or stone fit the bill perfectly. Make sure to use the non-slip kind.
• Vinyl flooring works well in mudrooms. Pick a color that will not show dirt, and take extra care to install it on a moisture-proof substrate.
• Concrete is suitable for mudroom floors. It is easy to clean and makes an attractive alternative when it is stained or etched.
• Fiber mats and a boot scraper at the door help shoes get clean.
• Rugs can collect water and dirt from feet before they track it into the house. Make sure the rugs are non-skid and washable.

Adequate storage is a must. Whatever your interests - gardening, sports, or pets - make room to store your things.

• Shelving is essential. Use ventilated wire for quick drying. Create and label individual sections for each family member to keep things organized.
• Pegs accommodate wet jackets, hats, pocketbooks and umbrellas. Pegs or hooks also help organize key rings and dog leashes.
• Place shelving and pegs at proper levels for each family member's easy reach.
• A mudroom is a great place to locate the family recycling center.
• Add a laundry basket or bin for your wet duds.
• Personalize each family member's storage area by color or name.

Proper heating and ventilation reduces humidity and prevents mildew. It also speeds up the drying of wet garments. An adjustable vent to control heat or air conditioning is a small investment.

• A bath-type exhaust fan with a timer is effective, as long as it's vented outdoors. A heat lamp would be nice to ease the chill after a day of sledding.
• Make sure the entry doors are airtight and secure. Use pet doors to save energy.

If you plan to add a wall color, select paint that is easy to clean, mildew resistant and moisture proof. Higher gloss acrylic latex paint offers both of those features plus extra stain resistance.
Other things to consider include:

• A bench or chair is convenient for removing wet shoes. Keep a pair of clean, dry shoes nearby to slip on.
• Tack up the art overflow from the refrigerator door and start your own gallery.
• A mirror is also a practical addition if you want to get a quick peek at yourself as you leave.

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Make Your Laundry Room Work

No one wants to bring home a washer or dryer that doesn't fit into its designated space. Follow these steps to ensure your purchase and installation of these major appliances goes smoothly.

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Basics of Planning a Laundry Room

1. Decide where you'll install your new washer and dryer.

 

You'll need:

• A level floor with no more than a 1-inch slope.
• A location that can support the installation of a dryer exhaust system.
• Hot and cold water lines within 3 feet of washer hookups.

2. Measure the height, width and depth of the area designated for your new washer and dryer.

Here's how to measure:

• Width: Side to Side — Add 1 inch on each side for air circulation.
• Depth: Back to Front — Add at least 6 inches to depth for door clearance, dryer vents and hookups.
• Height: Top to Bottom — For top-loading washers, add at least 20 inches for door clearance.

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Details of Planning a Laundry Room

 

1. Measure everything. Before you buy, make sure your washer and dryer can clear doorways, hallways and other points of entry that will be used to deliver your new laundry set.

 

2. Give yourself some elbowroom. Leave at least 48 inches of clearance in front of each unit so you'll have room to walk around the open doors.

 

3. Leave extra space for future machines. If your washer and dryer need to be replaced one day, you may not find a set with the same measurements.

 

4. Check the power. Confirm that electrical output is sufficient for the location of your new washer and dryer.

 

5. Consider a stackable washer and dryer set. They'll use less floor space and can be quite handy in compact laundry rooms or closet laundry facilities.

 

6. Gas or electric? Double-check the dryer's power source in your laundry room before shopping. You can save considerable time and money by knowing if it's gas or electric.

 

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Refinishing and Cleaning Kitchen Cabinets

Make your kitchen look like new with a cabinet facelift.

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Cleaning Kitchen Cabinets

 

Heat, water, grease and food residue can take their toll on your kitchen cabinets. And you might be surprised what a good scrubbing can do. When you're ready to clean your cabinets, have the following on hand:

1. Label or number the cabinet doors if you remove them so you'll put them back in the right place. (If you're sanding or painting, don't sand off or paint over the marks.) The holes for the hinges (door and frame) need to match too, so you can easily determine which door goes where.


2. Lay plenty of drop cloths to protect countertops, appliances and floors.


3. Wear gloves and eye protection when using a cleaner such as TSP (trisodium phosphate).


4. Clean thoroughly, following the cleaner's instructions. Keep a clean surface of the cloth in contact with the cabinet for best results.


5. Rinse the cabinets. If the rinse water looks dirty, repeat the cleaning process.


6. Allow the wood to dry.

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Cleaning and Updating Cabinet Hardware

 

Hardware (including hinges) gets greasy and dirty, too. Since you have the doors off, remove the knobs and hinges, and clean the hardware:

1. Soak the hardware in a soapy-water solution for 30 minutes.
2. Scrub lightly with a soft brush and rinse.
3. Let dry and apply the proper polish.

If you need to replace one or two pieces, take one set with you when you go to your local Lowe's. But if your cabinet hardware is older, it may be difficult to find an exact match. With all the knobs and hinges off, it's a great time to shop for new hardware. You should also take some of your old hardware along to make sure the new hardware will fit your existing doors.
Many decorative styles of hinges, knobs and pulls are available in various colors, metals and finishes:

• Antique Copper

• Polished Chrome

• Polished, Sterling or Antique Brass

• Nickel

• Aged Bronze

• Ceramics (knobs and pulls)

• Iron

When choosing the finish for your hardware, think about what style will look best in your home. If your style is traditional, brushed finishes, polished brass, nickel or pewter will complement your décor. If you have a more contemporary décor, choose finishes with an enameled or high-gloss-metal shine or theme hardware to blend with the overall look of the kitchen.

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Adding Moulding to Cabinets

 

You can dress up drab cabinet doors with moulding. Applying a contrasting finish or color is a quick and inexpensive way to change the look of your kitchen. Keep the following safety tips in mind when you add moulding:

• Always apply finishing materials in a well-ventilated area.
• Wear eye protection and rubber gloves to prevent exposure to finishing materials.
• Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions and cautions.

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Stripping and Refinishing Cabinets

 

If your cabinets still don't look spectacular after cleaning, you may have to refinish or paint them. The cabinet-refinishing process is similar to the one for refinishing furniture.

Unless you're planning to take your cabinets down, there are a few extra things to remember. As you've already discovered from cleaning, working with cabinets in place on the wall can be messy and awkward. Liquid strippers work best, but use the gel or semipaste types. They won't drip as much when used on vertical surfaces. However, before you can buy the proper stripper, you'll need to find out what kind of finish is on your cabinets.

The original finish is one of several possible materials. Most of them look identical to an untrained eye. Use the chart below to determine what type of finish you have. Find an inconspicuous spot on the wood to perform the tests.

 

If You Suspect Your Finish Is	Determine By
Wax	Put a few drops of turpentine on the wood. If the finish dissolves, it's wax-based.
Shellac	Apply a few drops of denatured alcohol. If the finish dissolves quickly, it's shellac.
Lacquer or Shellac	Try a few drops of lacquer thinner to dissolve.
Water-Based Finish	A few drops of Xylene liquefies water-based finishes.
Polyurethane or Varnish	Paint / varnish remover strips these materials, but you'll probably still have to sand some of the old finish off.
Other Finishes You May Encounter (and What to Do About Them)
Penetrating Oil	The product does just what its name says, so nothing can remove it. The color isn't strippable since it's become part of the wood. If the wood is dry, it can be clear-coated, waxed or painted.
Paint	Determine whether the paint is oil-based or water-based (latex). Rub a rag or cotton ball moistened with denatured alcohol on the paint surface. If it rubs off or gets soft, it's latex. Alcohol won't affect oil paint. Latex paint can be applied over oil if the old surface has been lightly sanded and properly primed.
Vinyl-Covered or Formica Surfaces	Don't attempt to paint or refinish. A professional should refinish cabinets surfaced with these materials.

 

Always let the stripping agent do the work. These products are relatively easy to use. But if you're not an experienced refinisher, you may want to start with an inconspicuous area or door. Remember to keep countertops, appliances and floors covered when stripping and refinishing.

After stripping and before refinishing or painting, patch any conspicuous holes, scratches and nicks with wood filler. When dry, sand lightly to smooth out the patch. Before painting, sand lightly and prime.

 

***Note: Before you decide to paint floating-panel cabinet doors, remember that the wood expands and contracts with the seasons. This will cause the paint bead to separate and expose unpainted wood. Before undertaking refinishing, remind yourself that it takes a lot of time and effort. Also, remember that your kitchen may be out of commission for a while.

 

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